The power plug on Acer Aspire works when moved

I had a power problem with my Acer Aspire 5102 laptop.

The power plug would need to be fiddled with in order to work, once you found the right spot it would work great.

For about a week that worked, then it got harder. It’d take twice as long to find the sweet spot, then it would last 5 minutes to 12 hours and suddenly it was no longer charging.

I looked around online, and was told by a repair shop that it is definitely the power plug, Acers & Toshibas seem to have a problem with the power plug being crappy, he said to send it in & for $100+shipping he’d have it taken care of.

Well, for $400 I can buy a better laptop than what I currently have, so why would I spend 1/4 as much on a jack repair when I could just invest in a new laptop for that much?

I just kept putzing with the cord, (for about 3 weeks), while it kept getting worse, the cord needed to be putzed with at least once an hour to keep working, until today when it finally decided it would have no more & no amount of fiddling would work.

I have repaired XBOX & Wii boards for friends who were dumb enough to overheat them. This involves re-running a trace that been lifted, not nearly the same, but I’ve also helped them with their installations as well as repairing XBOX power supplies that had the built in fuse blow, so I figured what the heck, since I’m practically planning on throwing the machine away (not worth the repair & it won’t even function as a desktop), so I’ll fix it myself.

It was a massive pain to take apart. I’ve worked on Dells (upgrading CPU, general cleaning every 6 months or so), and while the equipment is junk (slow FSB, slow RAM, etc…) [at least the ones I’ve had to fix], the things are damn reliable & Dell is kind enough to provide a full break down set of instructions that show you every step of the way how to repair or replace anything.
NOT LIKE THIS ON THE ACER, I couldn’t find a manual, so I winged it.

When I get down to the motherboard, I notice solder splotches just about everywhere, the only reason for this is carelessness at the Acer factory, plain and simple.

Once I finally get to the power jack, I notice that 1 pin that’s connecting to the mobo is COMPLETELY BLACK, the only time I’ve ever seen solder like this is when you do a really really bad job soldering that results in a cold joint. So, I used some de-soldering braid & got all of the solder off (first you apply a new layer of solder, then you remove it all with the braid, don’t ask me why, but it works wonders), 2 of the other pins looked like the solder job wasn’t done very well either, so I de-soldered them as well.

I went ahead & re-soldered the pins back to the mobo, threw the battery in & low and behold! The problem is gone. I clean up the board using alcohol on swabs & more importantly removed the solder splotches that were all over the board. I finished putting it back together about an hour and a half ago, and its been running like new (while you’re in there, make sure you blow the cob webs out of the fans & heatsinks, you won’t regret it)!

Moral of the story, its not hard to fix, if your computer isn’t under warranty, consider fixing it yourself or having a competent friend who can solder take care of it for you.

38 Responses

  1. Hi there. I couldn’t find any way to communicate other than this reply form so hope u don’t mind.
    My question is, I am about to purchase my first laptop.
    I know the features I want.
    I have found a second hand Toshiba Satellite 1410,
    and a TG 2000 and A HP Pavillion 4281
    They are both ex rental models and come with 6 months warranty.
    Price = $ 495.00
    I preference the toshi myself as from my research they are very hard wearing when transported around.
    I have an aversion to paying too much for anything computer like due to depreciation so secondhand seems an ok way to go.
    What do you thing of these models, is there any pertinant question I should be asking the dealer? or anything I should watch out for here?

  2. Laptop Freak

    This comment kinda is not related to the post, but that’s OK.
    Dude, don’t spend $500 on a used laptop. Please don’t.
    Visit BestBuy and Circuit City websites and do your research. For $500 or a little bit more you can buy a brand new laptop with modern hardware and one year warranty. If you wait for a good sale you can buy a new laptop under $500.

  3. I’ve been having exactly the same problem with my Acer ASPIRE 3002LCi – except that I can always EVENTUALLY find the “sweet spot” – typically by reseating the plug a few times and slowly rotating in the socket. Is there anything I can do without disassembling the computer, and if not, how do I go about that? I’d really like to NOT have to get a whole new laptop if I can avoid it.

    I have standard soldering tool – would I need one that is computer-specific?

    Thanks for any advice, Andy

  4. Hey, I’ve got a similar problem with my laptop, except this time I know the exact problem. The cable that goes from the power brick to the laptop has a nick in it right at the cable strain relief.

    What I need to do is open up the power brick, unsolder the wires, cut the cable, and resolder the wire onto the brick.

    The issue though, is the power brick has no visible way of opening it. No screws, “no nothing”. Is there any way I could get it open, or is the risk of breaking it too high?

    – Tim

  5. Laptop Freak


    What I need to do is open up the power brick, unsolder the wires, cut the cable, and resolder the wire onto the brick.

    The AC adapter is sealed and is not repairable. You’ll have to buy a new adapter.

  6. Odessa

    Okay, first of all don’t slap me. I bought a Dell XPS Gen2 on Ebay about 8 months ago – all has been good. Well the adapter that came with it got chewed through by my puppy (don’t ya love teething). Anyway, so I found what was supossed to be a NEW GENUINE DELL 130w (PA-13) AC Adapter on e-Bay as well. I got it, plugged it in, and immediately got this error message:
    “This adapter may not provide sufficient power to operate the system. your system performance will be impacted. Please connect a Dell 13W AC adapter or higher for best system operation.”

    I had AC power, but it wouldn’t charge the battery. I could take out the jack, blow on it, stick it back in, and it would charge the battery. I contacted the seller, and returned it. Just got the replacement 2 days ago. the new replacement worked okay – no problem on first plug in, then when powering back up from Hibernate, I got the (i guess) BIOS message that I needed 130W to power up and to strike F1 to shutdown. So I shut down, unplug and power up. Blow on it, twist it, etc. Nada – this one takes a little longer to find the “sweet spot”.

    Now before I go and blow $100 at dell, is it the adapter, or a jacked up adapter? The adapters look like Dells, have Dell stickers on ’em. But I’m thinking maybe they are just Dell casings with crap parts inside.

    If the adapter is bad, is this gonna fry my laptop? And please, spare me the e-bay rant. I’ve learned my lesson, except, this laptop has been very good, and the seller has told me if I have any problems to contact him and he will fix it for me. So with him I’m good, with the adapter guy – not so good!!!


  7. Odessa


    Is it the adapters that are bad, or is a bad adapter on the motherboard, or did I completely screw up my motherboard?

  8. michael

    I was having problems with charging a vaio laptop, i realized it was the dc jack and took the thing apart, got to the jack and hit a problem. on everything i’ve read most of the problems come from the solder joints to the jack itself, this jack is connected to the motherboard with a wire and i was wondering whether i need to replace the jack or can fix it. (all of the symptoms are in line with a broken jack, it only charges when holding the cord in a certain direction for example)

  9. Lindsay


    I’m having the ACER problem, mine would randomly turn off and would usually start up again and would barely ever charge the battery. Then last night it decided to turn off and won’t turn back on. My sister’s husband is really good with computers, but I don’t know that he can take the laptop apart and do all that sottering, does anyone know how much it would cost to fix this little problem, I would get a new laptop, and I have a warranty but its running out and I don’t want to have to go throught the hassel of buying a new one….


    Hi there, I was looking around for some tips on how to fix my lovely Acer 3680 laptop and came across your post. I have been having the same sort of power problems and I guess we “fiddled” with the cable one to many times. The pin that feeds into the ac adaptor has come off. Is there any way to repair this? Or, do you know of a battery that charges off the computer (same idea as rechargeable batteries for a camera)…I called acer and I am left on hold indefinately and am finally sick of dealing with them.


  11. I bought an Acer Travelmate from PC World in London and there my nightmares began!
    Ok to the problem at hand, my power adaptor has similar problems to what I have read here. The travelmate is 4 years old so not worth the money to fix it. I took apart the laptop took me an hour or so, and lo and behold the power adaptor end was snapped in half, the end part the fixes itself into the board – i can try to solder this but may just work on a temp basis. does anyone know where i can get a hold of one???

  12. dear all,

    my laptop just suddenly switched off by itself after ten minute, ACER aspire 5572 models.

    never like thi sbefore…this is the first happened after ten mninutes i started to use it.

    and till i wrote this stil no sign of anything not even any blink from the power or battery indicator….

    oh ya…whenevr you pluig in the pwer cord to the laptop, the small green LED at the power jack wil be slowly blink and becomes dimmer than usual, but as soon a syou take it out from the lap[top, ity began to return to real green as it supposed to be …

    kindly please help me on this.

    thans and regard,


  13. I’ve got an Acer 5570 notebook. I was noticing the battery was draining when plugged in. I jiggled the plug, and the little icon in XP showed it back on big electric company power. It went out again just a few seconds later. I did the same thing, and got the same result.

    Well, I pulled out the power connector, and the center pin came out with it. D’oh!

    I went to a local electronics store, got a replacement jack, and got a new plug to replace on the brick since it’s a different size. They didn’t have a PCB mounted jack. It’s one that mounts with a nut so I had to put the jack on the belt sander in order to fit it in, and then had to trim part of the case to get the top to close. Those Dremel tools can do anything. I used a diamond wheel from Harbor Freight. Unfortunately, I thought I was cutting plastic, but I was trimming aluminum. Aluminum dust and computer circuit boards don’t mix well. I blew compressed air thoroughly in there, and when I got it all back together, it still worked the same way. Whew!

    Bottom line…It still doesn’t see that it’s plugged in. The circuit board where the power jack was connected is labeled PJ2. I put the + wire to pin 1, and the – to pin 3. I believe pins 2 and 3 are connected together. It looked like those were where the original jack connected.

    The only thing I might have done wrong is overheat the board when soldering. I’ve never dealt with solder that wouldn’t melt like the stuff that came on that board. I took the notebook apart again. (I’m getting good at that.) I do see the 19 volts at the points I soldered.

    Do you know if I got the right pins? Next I’ll try starting the unit while it’s open to see if I might have been shorting out something. I didn’t smell anything bad when I had it together though.

    Thanks for any help you can provide.

  14. Christina

    I had the same problem and listed above earlier. Everyone I spoke to said I would have to replace the mother board….I work in the automotive industry and decided to try this little repair…not out anything more than the price of the mobo if it didn’t work right…got some grid line repair (for rear defroster) as it is conductive and an adhesive…throughly cleaned the pin and followed the instructions as if I was repairing the grid line…worked like a charm!!!!…toughest part was lining it up the same way it snapped off.

  15. Never mind. I must have been shorting something out. I saw some scratches on the PC board above where I put in the new jack. To fix the problem, I took a small piece of plastic (like what is used for those vacuum formed plastic packages with the welded edges.) I put a small spot of rubber cement to keep it in place, and put everything back together. It’s working fine now.

    Those $75-$100 repair rates don’t seem too bad now.

  16. Christina,
    I can see how that would work. I needed that last year for it’s original purpose in my car.

    That would have been a good first try for me. I would believe the tricky parts would be to get the pin to again make contact with the wire in the back, and then to be sure you don’t use too much of the adhesive so there’s no short.

    I hope the repair keeps working for you.

  17. same computer, same problem…dc jack cracked and broke off the motherboard on the pin connection….where did you get a replacement jack?

  18. I got the jack and plug from a local electronics store. For some reason I had trouble finding the same size that was originally used. I had a difficult time getting the old connector unsoldered. Of course I tried to minimize the heat applied, but the solder just wouldn’t melt easily. A solder sucker didn’t work, and a lot of time with a solder wick finally got enough of it off so I could get the terminals out. Only 2 terminals are used. The switching function of the jack isn’t used.
    I believe you could find a jack/plug pair at Radio Shack. Run some small wires from the jack to the PC Board. With any of them, there’s going to be some case filing necessary. As I mentioned above, be careful with any aluminum filings.
    Good luck.

  19. I used a very large hammer on my Acer laptop. It didn’t sort out the problem, but it felt very good as I broke down the problem in to smaller manageable chunks. I will use this technique for other inanimate IT equipment. 😉

  20. I used a very large hammer on my Acer laptop. It didn’t sort out the problem, but it felt very good as I broke down the problem in to smaller manageable chunks.

    That’s my contingency plan.

    I have an Acer Aspire on my hands that has the broken power jack pin problem. I’m confident that I’ll be able to deal with it once I get at it. What I’d like to know from those who’ve made a breakthrough: how did you get the back off so you could get to the motherboard?
    I’ve removed all visible screws (and even a couple of invisible ones), but still it’s holding itself together with a death grip, as if it’s not intended to be serviced.

  21. my acer laptop has a broken dc jack. I am trying to repair it like you did but i can’t get to the plug. removed the plate with the power button and removed all screws visable however bottom still does not come off.

  22. You need to remove the keyboard. The remaining screws that hold the bottom on are there. See you tube for pictorials.

  23. How did you finally get the back off? It seems as thought there is a hidden connection holding the back cover in place. Is it just a matter of removing everything until the power jack is exposed?

  24. the center pin in the middle of my power jack on an Acer Aspire 5570Z just fell out…
    I have a backup laptop to use which I got for a great price so I am just putting the Acer on ebay for parts/repair.

    Looking now, there are TONS of those jacks listed on ebay……..

  25. Acer Aspire 5101 here and pretty much the same problem as the original poster. Haven’t had the time to open it up yet but it works most of the time. It’s only when I move it the battery starts discharging.

  26. Steve Strizer

    I have just replaced the dc jack on my acer 1360, i used electronic solder SN:60%. Turns out after a few days the jack area was super hot and the connection went bad again.

    Which solder should i be using for dc jacks? Does different solder able to hold the power of the jack?

    Also, I have seen on toshiba lapotps, a glue that engulfs the jack? where do i get this glue?


  27. Kosta Soulotis

    Ok so i got a acer Aspire 5220 about a year ago and it was like slow so i got it formated to have the some old viast black the guy who was formating it for me called me and said the only thing ther had was windons 7 so i said ok about a day or two latter my laptop keet shutting down with no reason so my friend told me it was the windons 7 and told me to go back with viast black. so b/c windons 7 can’t be formated to viast black so i formated my labtop to xp well i tryed the frist time i did it half way thero my laptop shtted done and the 2nd time i tryed it was done and it shutted down again i keet trying to format it but my laptop keet shutting down and when i turn it on with out the xp cd nothing happens can anyone help me
    thank you

  28. I need help i have the same problem,how did you open it?

  29. I have a Dell C640 that a few months ago had a larger hardrive and new battery installed. It has been working perfectly until today–It was on for about 10 minutes with battery power and then was picked up from the table and went blank, It will not power-up at all, sometimes I can get it to show power, the fan runs fast and all the LED light at the same time. I brought it home and it will power with the AC adapter, but not with the battery. The indicators on the battery show a full charge–what happened?

  30. Quote:
    “The AC adapter is sealed and is not repairable. You’ll have to buy a new adapter.”

    Ive opened many an AC adapter with a hammer and chisel, then after repairing, just taped it up with duct tape again. If your’e going to throw the thing out anyway, you might as well butcher itfirst to seeif its repairable. Its not pretty, but it gets the job done.
    I find that most adapters seem to louse up where the secondary power cable is soldered to the board or just as its coming out of the adapter you get a wire break.

  31. For acer aspire you must remove all the back screws and there are some in the battery bay too.
    Then prize off the cover over the power on button,it levers off on the right .More screws are under it. Then remove keyboard carefully and the other connectors are under there.
    I have worked on aspire and extensa and both come apart this way. Remove the wifi connectors to get the screen seperate.
    On the extensa, unbolt the video out nuts to remove the motherboard ,on aspire it just lifts away in one piece.

  32. Toshiba A105 S361 laptop Dead
    Plug /power supply replaced 19V dc confirmed.
    Mother Board and dc connector replaced.
    Unit totally dead,no leds,nothing at all.
    Any resets on this computer,any help appreciated?

  33. I think I have the same problem with my Acer Travelmate. I thought it was my adapter that is busted. So i bought a new one. But with the new adapter i also have to fizzle it to get power. I used it for 15 minutes, after i unplugged it, i smelled burnt something on the power socket of the laptop. And the pin from the adapter looked a little bit melted and the pin was as hot as flat iron. Would it be the same problem as yours?

  34. Laptop Freak


    I thought it was my adapter that is busted. So i bought a new one. But with the new adapter i also have to fizzle it to get power.

    Sounds like a problem with the DC jack inside the laptop. It’s necessary to disassemble the laptop and take a closer look at the jack. Most likely the jack has to be resoldered or replaced.

    I used it for 15 minutes, after i unplugged it, i smelled burnt something on the power socket of the laptop. And the pin from the adapter looked a little bit melted and the pin was as hot as flat iron.

    Hopefully you didn’t damage the motherboard.

  35. Alex

    I have a different kind of problem! I have an acer aspire 9500 laptop and my power button doesnt work. At first I had to press it 2-3 times at different angles and it worked. Yesterday I tried about 500 times and I didnt manage to power up my laptop. I took the plastic covering off and pressed the tiny button on the green plate but still nothing! Can anybody help me?

  36. Laptop Freak


    I have a different kind of problem! I have an acer aspire 9500 laptop and my power button doesnt work. At first I had to press it 2-3 times at different angles and it worked. Yesterday I tried about 500 times and I didnt manage to power up my laptop. I took the plastic covering off and pressed the tiny button on the green plate but still nothing! Can anybody help me?

    I believe in an Acer Aspire 9500 the power button is located on a power button board.
    The part number for the power button board is: 435906BOL11
    If the power button doesn’t work, you’ll have to replace the entire power button board.

  37. Sticky

    Hey there,

    There are a couple of good videos about this repair on Youtube. I just repaired on where the board was really bad. I opted to solder a pigtail on it that has a jack at the end. If you do this, use a three wire cable and tie the third on to the board inside as a stress relief. Then cover the whole thing with a blob of non-conductive epoxy.

  38. Hey all. I am attempting to replace the DC jack on a Sony Vaio PCG-81115L or VPCF136FM (same computer different numberss) anyway, When i got inside the computer I noticed that the DC jack has a cable that runs from the jack, to a plug on the motherboard. Has anyone else seen this? Am I missing something? It doesnt seme like I will need to solder anything to replace it (assuming a buy the whole replacement assembly that included the jack and wiring all the way to the above mentioned plug). Does that sound right!? Thanks for the help in advance!