When I press the laptop power button, the power and hard drive lights flash on, then shut off immediately
I’m trying to fix my parents HP Compaq nx9005 laptop.
When you press the power button, the power, and hard drive lights flash on, then shut off immediately (doesn’t even last a second). The power light will also remain off until the reset button is pressed again, or you unplug the AC adaptor, then plug it back in. Once it has been reset the power light blinks with an amber glow (with the battery out).
I’ve tried this with and without the battery. I’ve tried it without the hard drive. I’ve switched the RAM in various combinations. I’ve tried connecting the laptop directly to my desktop monitor. Same result every time. I’m guessing it’s an internal electrical problem, but I’m not very experienced with laptops as opposed to desktops. Any suggestions what to troubleshoot next? Thanks in advance!
First of all, make sure that the AC adapter is working properly. Ideally, I would try to replace the adapter with a test one but if you don’t have it at least check the voltage on your adapter. It’s not the best way to test the adapter with a multimeter. I’ve seen some failing adapters with good voltage readings. A bad AC adapter would be an easy fix for you.
Just recently I had a similar problem with Compaq nx5000 notebook. I was able to turn on the computer, but it shut down after a few seconds (your notebook shuts off immediately) and the video never appeared on the screen. I tried to troubleshoot all basic stuff, as you did. I removed the hard drive, battery, DVD drive, wireless card, replaced the memory module but nothing helped. Finally, when I was checking all internal connection, I discovered that the notebook works fine with an external monitor attached when the LCD screen is disconnected from the motherboard. By the way, this connector is located under the keyboard strip – a piece of plastic just above the keyboard. As soon as I connected the LCD cable back to the motherboard, the laptop didn’t start. So, I took the display assembly apart and found that the video cable wasn’t seated properly in the connector on the back of the screen. The problem was fixed as soon as I plugged the video cable back in.
I’ve posted my discovery on another website and a week later one guy was able to fix exactly the same problem with his Compaq nx5000 notebook after he reseated the video cable.
I don’t know how comfortable you are with taking apart laptops but I think that this information could be useful for you.
July 21st, 2007 at 9:18 pm
Russ,
Maybe this is your problem? The voltage shouldn’t change.
Test your laptop with a known good AC adapter.
July 19th, 2007 at 8:01 pm
I have a dead Toshiba A75-s206, trying to isolate the exact problem. It died suddenly, now won’t power on…the AC and Battery LED’s n front just flicker/blink at me..and the cooling fans shutter…like they are trying to start but not enough power. I had to do the DC-power jack workaround about a year ago…and soldered a pig tail connector and removing the dc jack entirely. I replaced that pigtail first(thinking that might be problem)no luck. I tested the AC adapter with multmeter…I get 19volts, but the current seems to be flux(or I’m just not testing it right??Been 15years since electronics class) I have a new (unaltered) AC adapter(at home)but to use it now…will require the installing of the DC Jack(still in package).
Bad AC Adapter?
Bad Battery?
Fans?
or fried CPU/motherboard?
May 30th, 2007 at 8:51 pm
Robert
I see you know a bit about computers, and what you stated you’ve bone all seems to be correct (i’d still use regedit and hkey_local_machine\software\microsoft\windows\
currentverion\run and see whats up there but it seems strange since windows isint limited to its resorces anymore (like in the old 16 IRQS only) I mean MY wireless is running on IRQ 22!! anyway good luck
Harry
May 30th, 2007 at 8:16 pm
Hi Harry:
Thanks…I regularly go into the ms config, or use tools, and shut down as much as possible in my startup…I dont’ run more than one AV, except recently, when I was worried that I actually had a virus…then I quickly installed AVG, ran it, and found I had none…I then removed it…
I have tried looking in event viewer to see if there is anything strange happening to no avail…
I was hoping to not reimage from scratch…sigh…I fear it may be my only choice…
I will go into task manager and shut down things that aren’t important too…
The “Out of resources” issue…I have gone into hardware manager when they are installed an made sure only one install exists…I get that yield sign (error) on it and when I go to the resources tab, it basically tells me my system is out of resources…I have gone so far as to remove different resources such as memory stick, etc, and reboot in hopes that it would fix itself, and it hasn’t…I think my dang machine is just plain out of memory…
One last thing I considered, but do not know how to check…is it possible that the RAM could be corrupted? It shows up in my Computer Properties ok, so I don’t think so, but you never know…
Also, I tried expanding the paging to no avail…
I have tried a bunch of things…oh well..
Thanks anyway!!
May 30th, 2007 at 8:03 pm
Forgot the heat issue check to see if the vents are clogged, but with all the “crap” you got going on continually, no wonder it dosen’t stop your CPU mush be dying from the overwork. LOL THERE I”ve said My peice.
Harry
May 30th, 2007 at 8:00 pm
Oh and Robert,
All these programs have to “close too” when you turn off your computer, reason for taking so long to do that too LOL
Harry
May 30th, 2007 at 7:55 pm
Hi Robert Freak of course.
you say you have 75 proccess running?? Let me quess. when you start up your machine you have MSN MSN messenger, the weather forcast your anti virus, (probly more then one)your quick launch, printer software scanner camara etc. just in boot up. then you have your ISP’s software, and problly ie7 loading. you have system mechanic. running with yahoo or google messenger, etc,etc,etc, thats the problem with just clicking next next next in all these programs. They ASK if you want them to launch when you start your computer.
now also more then one AV is like takeing nyQwil tylenol nova histex asprin and couph syrup for a cold. you now have a DOPED up computer LOL as well as all the “crap” running in the background. (plus)whatever else you’ve downloaded.
also, how many times have you uninstalled and reinstalled your wireless and usb devices? Dependent on
HOW you have uninstalled them (specilly if you left system restore on.) You see, though you don’t “see them in system devices, there still there using the IRQs. (ergo the out of resorces) Try going into your system and click on Hidden devices in the system propertys, they might still be listed there.
Lastly my recomendation for your problem would be to burn your important info, and do a compleate wipe and reinstall. then when you install all your other “stuff” READ what it says, and when it askes if you want it in your start menu or launch when windows starts YOU SAY NO.(really dosen’t speed opening the programs anyway)
Or you could edit the reg “run” if you know how,
Oh and, Use only ONE AV. more then one and they just start fighting agenst each other,….
This is MY opinion. Harry Andresen head tech @ a1Computerclinic.com
May 30th, 2007 at 2:34 pm
I have a Sony laptop PCG-FRV37 and I have three issues happening…
1. it runs really hot, and the fan never shuts off…It has a P4, which I believe runs hot anyway, but is this normal?
2. It takes at least 5 – 10 minutes to finally shut off…I have run system mechanic on the registry and machine, umpteen virus scans, defrags, disk checks…come up with zilch…
3. both my PCI and USB Wireless G cards are “out of resources”…does this mean I simply do not have enough ram to sustain everything that is running in the background? On a good day, I may have 75 processes at a time running…I have 704 Mb of Ram…
Any ideas?
May 27th, 2007 at 7:28 am
Harry- Thanks for your words of support. It definitely feels a lot less lonely when people like you participate in forums like this! True, the Presario R3000 series is part of a host of Compaq and HP laptops which have problems with the solder that connects the power-cord jack to the motherboard. However, I don’t think this is my problem. People with the soldering problem report that the AC power cuts out with increasing frequency and that the battery won’t charge, but I think their computers still run OK with a charged battery. (Is this consistent with your HP problem?) In contrast, my computer consistently dies after EXACTLY 5.5 seconds, even if it is running on battery power.
As for your HP laptops, it sounds like they may have the solder problem. If so, you are lucky because the fix is cheap. If you haven’t already seen, two sites that discuss this problem and its solution are:
http://forumz.tomshardware.com/ce/Presario-R3000-power-cord-issueftopic-50946-days0-orderasc-200.html
and
http://www.howtofixcomputers.com/bb/ftopic73146-0-asc-270.html
In the meantime, if anyone has any ideas on how I can further troubleshoot my problem please post!
May 24th, 2007 at 8:28 pm
Hi Eric, Freak,
Harry here. not really familiar with your compaq,.BUT if I recall it came out about the same time as the netorious nc6000 hp’s (I have two of these with the exact same problem. With mine their seems to be a bad connection (again both) where the power board plugs into the main board. If I unplug the power board and insert it “just so” or sometimes apply preasure to a serton “spot” between the two boards They will boot no problem. I’ve even left them running for hours fine till I turn them off. try to restart, back to the 5.5sec turn off I’ve switched power boards, even got another one off e-bay. They all do the same thing on BOTH mainbaords!!! I THINK it might be a bad solder somewhere that finally “let lose” but I haven’t had the time to prusoo the problem any further yet. (not to mention the lack of space between the boards to check)My comcern is that it seems to be a manifactoring defect, so a new board may only solve the problem temp like
This is all I can say about this for now, when I get a chance to check these out some more I”ll post my findings. DO NOT feel lonley in this matter Eric, trust me YOU ARE NOT ALONE!!
Harry
May 24th, 2007 at 8:00 pm
Hi all, I’m still seeking advice. Since my previous post, I have removed the CD drive, the keyboard, the modem, the “mini PCI communication card”, the display, the speakers, the secondary memory module, and the touch pad. (Still attached are the motherboard, the primary memory module, the CPU, the heat sink, the fan, and nothing else, I think.) With all this stuff gone, I get the same behavior as before: exactly 5.5 seconds after I turn it on, everything dies. I also tried swapping out primary memory module with the removed secondary memory module (they’re identical modules). That also had no effect. So here’s my question: how can I tell whether the problem is the motherboard, the memory module(s), the heat sink, the CPU, the fan, or maybe even something else? (I’d hate to spend $550 on a motherboard only to find out the motherboard wasn’t actually the problem!) Looking forward to hearing someone else’s opinion on this…
May 21st, 2007 at 7:18 pm
Hi Steve and Freak
Harry here
Steve vary basic question first. It sounds like you might of gone to the hardest solution first when your screen goes black, dose the computer still run?? if so your problem maybe ISEN”T hardware related its SOFTWARE!! you may have raised your video resalution behond your cards ability, or your drivers got knocked out of wack. Have you Tryed starting in safe mode? (keep hiting the F8 key as soon as you turn on your laptop)
and see if you get a good screen from there.
If so, goto control panel, system, display, propertys, update drivers and manually install standerd vga drivers first. reboot and reinstall the correct drivers from there. try that.
Harry
May 21st, 2007 at 6:34 pm
hi, I have a sony vaio lapotp. When laptop is turn on the the screen will work fine till windows starts and then the backlight will turn off. I tried the new screen samething happpen, I tried new inverter, samething happen, I tried new lcd harness, samething happen. I have even switch with new cpu, samething happen. Any suggestions?
Thanks so much!!
May 21st, 2007 at 3:57 pm
My laptop turns off 5 seconds after powering up.
I have a Compaq Presario R3000 (R3410, actually) which was working fine with no prior indication of anything wrong as far as I could tell. I’ve had it for two years. But this week it will not boot up. When I try to turn it on, some indicator lights come on and the fan starts up, but then exactly 5.5 seconds after it gets power, everything turns off.
I tried to start it up with only AC power (with the battery removed). I tried to start it up with only the battery. I’ve tried to drain any remnants of charge by holding down the power button for 1 minute with it unplugged and the battery removed. I’ve even tried re-seating the memory module. In all cases, the result is the same; it accepts power for exactly 5.5 seconds and then it dies. Interestingly, during my research I noticed another Presario R3000 on ebay with the exact same problem described.
Has anyone seen anything like this before? How can I troubleshoot this further?
May 6th, 2007 at 8:39 am
Hi.I have Toshiba 4080xcdt and the same problem “When I press the laptop power button, the power and hard drive lights flash on, then shut off immediately”.I tried everything but i still have the problem.Can anyone help me with this.I disconnected anything posible,i tried with-without batery.Please give me some idea.Thank you
April 29th, 2007 at 10:01 am
An update… your advice was tremendously helpful and the repair was a total success. For under $20 (thermal compound remover and thermal grease) I did what Sony would have charge at least $250 for (that’s just to look at it). The laptop runs better than it has in years.
The tutorial I posted earlier was also helpful and worth referencing. Using a hairdryer to heat the sink really helped in removing the stuck processor.
Thanks again.
April 4th, 2007 at 8:28 am
The problem maybe is the power jack on motherboard, jusr look at him and see for cold solder!!!
Goot luck!!!
April 2nd, 2007 at 10:13 am
hi i got a compaq armada e5oo laptop and the power connectoer snapped i tried to wire up to the power connections inside the laptop but i think i got them the wrong way round nothin happens now. i took it to bits to see if ther was a fuse but i did not find one. by crossing the polarity does this mean it beyond repair
March 12th, 2007 at 11:30 am
I have a HP Pavilion n5000 notebook. It does the exact same thing as the first entry above. If the power button is pushed it runs a fan for a few seconds and then shuts off. I discovered that if the CD/DVD drawer was open that the computer would boot up normally. When the drawer was pushed in the computer would shut off. I replaced the CD/DVD drive (a Mashita UJDA710) with a new one and was pleased when the computer booted up normally. My elation was dampered when I inserted a CD disk into the drive and closed the drawer. The computer shut off immediately. I’m stumped. I could get a USB CD drive and use that, but I’d like to fix this problem. Ever seen this before or have any suggestions?
March 10th, 2007 at 2:00 am
I tryed with a brand new hard drive, a brand new RAM module in either socket and still no go!
Might have to go to service dept. maybe!!
Cheers, Mat
March 6th, 2007 at 6:07 am
Amos forgot to mention if the cpu is STUCK to the heatsink get a long thin razor blade (like the brakable ones in a utility knife, stand the cpu heatsink on its edge (if you can) on a hard surface and place the blade between the cpu and heatsink (where the pad is)
now useing a see saw effect apply a little pressure. It should watch your fingures of course if this will not work apply the blade to the same spot and give the blade a wake with something on blade edge again on a flat surface. because this techneak will shoot the cpu a little distence when it finally disided to let go LOL
March 6th, 2007 at 5:56 am
Hi guys Amos the cpu should be fine since it wasen’t locked in no power would of made it to the pins and as long as you didn’t jam it in wrong no harm done. As for the heat sink remove and tighten them in an x pattern.
and lastly the “greese” some companys do use a “pad” but you don’t have to. if you just scrape off the old one, you can go to MOST computer stores and buy a small tube of thurmo greese from them, and if not. just go to ANY electrical parts store. and ask for thurmo greese.
just do NOT use your fingures to apply it and you don’t need alot. (I usally drop a bit on the cpu and use a toothpick to spread it evenly over the cpu chip
Hope this helped Harry
March 6th, 2007 at 12:21 am
Harry & LF,
You are exactly right, and I figured it out just a little while ago, after purchasing (after the fact, of course) and consulting the service manual. Fortunately, a visual inspection doesn’t suggest any damage to the CPU pins–hopefully there isn’t any unseen damage.
Now, I need a little more detail, since I’ve never removed a heatsink before. It seems to be held by a white adhesive (is this the grease?). The service manual indicates a “Thermal Sheet CPU” between the CPU and cooling unit (combination of heatsink and fan assembly) and says that the Thermal Sheet must be replaced with a new one if removed.
So, my new questions become:
1) How do I properly remove the heatsink?
2) Where should I acquire a new “Thermal Sheet CPU?” I found two options for ordering the exact part online–probably my best option?
3) How do I properly readhere the heatsink once the CPU is properly locked into its socket? You mentioned thermal grease–is there a particular product you recommend?
I greatly appreciate the help, especially since I think the last CPU I replaced was a Pentium II–that is to say, it’s been a while.
March 5th, 2007 at 8:42 pm
Ames,
I agree with Harry, check if the processor is seated properly and it’s LOCKED in the socket.
Here’s a common mistake. During the disassembly process you remove the heatsink and the processor comes out attached to the heat sink. Some people just push it back in the socket while it’s still attached to the heat sink. NEVER EVER do it because you can damage the processor.
Here’s the correct way:
1. Separate the CPU from the heat sink
2. Open the CPU socket on the motherboard
3. Place the CPU in the socket. There is only one correct position because the socket and CPU are both keyed.
4. Lock the socket
5. Apply new thermal grease on the CPU and install the heat sink
March 5th, 2007 at 8:16 pm
Steve If you have three laptops all the same ,.. pull one HD out of a “ggod” machine and try that. If it works theres your problem if not cdrom next,… Sorry I haven’t worked on many sonys, My work is toshiba dell and HP but logic dictates when you HAVE KNOWN good, replace till you find
Harry
March 5th, 2007 at 8:05 pm
Hi guys and “freak” (hi again) this one is for Ames who states the most obveious. he removed the CPU,… ergo most likly DID not “lock it back in when replaced easy to misjudge try again
Harry
March 5th, 2007 at 7:53 pm
Steve,
In cases like this I usually start taking the laptop piece by piece and test it after each step. It’s possible that one faulty device halting the entire system. I minimize it as much as I can until I have only three main parts left: motherboard, processor and memory. If you still experience the same problem with a barebone system, most likely there is a problem with the motherboard.
March 3rd, 2007 at 12:54 pm
Hello Goodman Freak,
I’ve scanned over the similar posts and comments on here, but haven’t found just the same problem, so here’s mine:
Some background info first… I’m dealing with my girlfriend’s 3 year old Sony Vaio PCG-FRV37. She’s always had it on a desk and plugged in to AC power (defeats the point of a lappy, of course).
Recently, the machine has been spontaneously turning off–symptoms indicated an overheating problem. I did some research, decided to open the machine and carefully clean out the fans and heatsink, which turned out to be filthy and fully clogged, with compressed air. Problem solved, right? Well no.
Now it doesn’t turn on. Similar to another poster, I push the power button and the LEDs come on for about a second–usually the battery LED flickers first and then the power LED, although sometimes just the power LED lights. If I hold the button down, the battery light stays on for about 5 seconds and the power LED only flashes as before. No other signs of life are apparent. The results are the same with just the AC adapter, just the battery, or both.
I was very careful in disassembly and reassembly, but apparently I did something to cause this new problem. And despite several hours of retracing my steps and troubleshooting to the best of my ability, I haven’t tracked down what I did wrong.
One thing of note is that cleaning the fans and heatsink required removing the CPU from its socket.
Any good ideas?
March 2nd, 2007 at 7:19 pm
Hi, I have power problem on my sony vaio FX150 laptop. when I press the power buttom the laptop will start, cpu fan will spinning but shuts off less than a second. When I press and hold the power switch, the laptop will goes on and then off, on and then off till I released the power switch. I dissemble the lcd screen and hooked up with an external monitor, same thing happen. The ac adapter works fine, I have three of them and I tried them and all the same. I changed the battery charger board on the laptop, still same. Could you help please? thanks!!
March 1st, 2007 at 9:53 am
Hi all,
I am trying to fix my friends hp compaq nx9005. The syptoms are as follows. The laptop boots up and enters windows when plugged in and will run indefinitely however if i try and install windows booting via the cd it dies from loss of power at a random interval e.g accepting the licence agreement. Then i have the issue of the laptop dying after a few seconds regardless of whether i boot from the install cd or hard drive.
Any help would be very much appreciated