——————————Siraj.

——————————Siraj.

I have a Toshiba A200 and it does not light.

Yet I LED “power” which is on and the LED “battery” which is also lit.

Do you know where it may come?

Could be memory failure.
Do you have two memory modules installed? Try removing memory modules one by one. Test the laptop with each module individually.
If one of the is bad, the laptop will start properly with the second module.

Yet I LED “power” which is on and the LED “battery” which is also lit.

Do you know where it may come?

Thank you all

and my other one laptop is very noisy everytime i used it thanks and god bless all

I was a satisfied owner of a Qosmio G35-AV650 until after about two years service the mains power light went off and the unit continue to run until the battery ran flat. After that point the machine would not run at all other than with a charged battery, which of course one can no longer obtain.

I had my unit tested by three different repair people and they all stated that a replacement motherboard would be required(which would be expensive) and the unit was not worth repairing as one could obtain similar performance at much less cost with a new unit. I thought this was a bit rough considering the unit is only two years old and retail pricing at that time was about $6000) but I did purchase a replacement (Toshiba A200) which offers much the same performance at a considerably lower cost (and lack many of the bells and whistles.

The solution: a Mains-powered battery unit

I got to thinking about the problem a few days ago and the essence of the solution is based on the fact that the unit can still run from a charged battery. As I saw it, if one could adapt a battery pack by removing the actual batteries while retaining the internal circuitry and then provide DC power to the appropriate points in the circuits (using the original AC/DC power supply) there was a possibility it could work. Incidentally, this technique might well work for other brands of laptop provided they are exhibiting a similar fault in the power supply system,

I realised of course that the catch was in the phrase the appropriate circuit points, which might have been difficult to determine. However, after carefully separating the batteries at their attachment points on the internal circuit board and metal circuit straps, it turned out to be fairly straightforward.

Shown below in Fig.1 is a photograph of the first mains battery that I built which was actually overdeveloped in that it had 2 DC power supplies coming in: I thought I had found an intermediate takeoff in the middle of the battery chain and it seemed possible that this might be vital to some monitoring function. When tested without the secondary power supply unit it functioned perfectly, so this element is redundant and can be omitted. The following figure (Fig.2) shows the wiring harness out of its enclosure so that the connections are clearly evident.

Fig.1 The Mains-Battery cell

Fig.2 Circuit wiring

Procedure

• Carefully separate the two halves of the battery casing using a sharp knife or screwdriver and endeavour to preserve the integrity of the two parts so that they can later be glued together.

• Detach the batteries from the wiring harness taking great care to ensure that the harness itself is not damaged in the process. This step requires the use of a soldering iron with reasonable heat capacity so that the solder in the joints can be melted sufficiently to enable the attachments to be levered off.

• Prepare the input DC power lines by cutting off the plug that normally fits into the rear of the computer and preparing one set of positive and negative connections. The power supply can then be connected into the circuit either via a connection block or by direct linkage into the circuit. The positive input links with the resistor on the end of a chain of components and the negative input links with the terminal located at the base of the circuit board (see Figs.2-3).

• To ensure that the components do not get damaged subsequent to assembly, I recommend lining the base of the battery casing either with double sided adhesive tape or non-conductive foam plastic.

• Finally, reassemble the battery casing with the necessary amounts of either superglue or PVC cement and modify the battery holder sufficiently to permit the cable to exit on the underside of the computer.

Fig.3 Circuit board

If all is gone well, you may then experience the delight I felt when I plugged the battery case into the computer and the power source into the wall and saw a blue light appear awhen I pressed the start button.

I hope this solution worked for you, but if it fails please remember that I was unable to provide any guarantees other than the fact that I built two of these cells for a Qosmio G35-AV650 and they both worked.

Good luck!

Tony Holland-Batt

PS I see that pictures are not accepted in this document, so if any fellow sufferers out there who would like full copies of the article, feel free to contact me at my e-mail address are provide them.